Making a Vegan Roux

A roux - equal parts fat and flour cooked together - is the classical thickener for white sauces, gravies and soups. In vegan cooking, the only change is swapping butter for vegan butter. The chemistry is identical: the flour's starch granules are coated in fat, preventing lumps when liquid is added. A good roux is the foundation of béchamel, gravy, mac and cheese and dozens of other sauces.

Step-by-Step: Making a Vegan Roux

1. Melt 50g vegan butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat until it just begins to bubble.
2. Add 50g plain flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon or whisk for 1 - 2 minutes.
3. The roux should look like pale golden paste - cook until it smells biscuity but not coloured.
4. Add 500ml warm plant milk very gradually - splash by splash at first, stirring constantly to prevent lumps.
5. As the sauce thickens, you can add milk more quickly. Keep stirring until smooth and desired consistency.
6. Season with salt, white pepper and a grating of nutmeg for a classic béchamel. For a velouté, use warm vegetable stock instead of milk.

Chef's Tips

• Warm the liquid before adding it to the roux - cold milk hitting a hot roux is the most common cause of lumps.
• If you do get lumps, whisk vigorously or strain through a sieve - the starch hasn't set yet so it will smooth out.
• A dark roux (cooked until deep brown) has a nutty, complex flavour - the base of Cajun gravies and gumbo.

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